The extremely early start today was totally worth it – as we managed to beat all the crowds to Gallipoli and had time to look at the memorials without being pressured.
BsKnee at the ANZAC Memorial
The ferry crossing from Canakkale across the Dardenelles to the peninsular (where the Gallipoli landings took place) started the day. A short bus trip to ANZAC cove, with the various memorials being pointed out on the way was quite moving. Our guide gave a detailed description of the movement of all the troops – the British, Turkish and ANZACs, which helped paint the picture for us. We had a chance to wander around the beachfront cemetery where about 22 New Zealanders are buried. We moved on to the ANZAC memorial – where the first service of the ANZAC day takes place. Interestingly, it isn’t ANZAC cove – which none of us had appreciated before now. They are setting up great grandstands for the commemoration in a month’s time – so that kind of marred the photo opportunities. Both us Kiwis and the Aussies asked where the people slept overnight for the ANZAC ceremonies and our guide told us they slept in front of the grandstands. Funny that – we had views of a large area – and it is actually quite small.
BsKnee at the NZ Memorial
We stopped at the real ANZAC cove for some photos and then moved on to the ridges defining the extent of the penetration made by the ANZAC troops. Along these ridges are the memorials for the Australians, Turkish and New Zealand troops. We stopped at all three memorials and paid our respects. Hard to believe that the battle here was almost one hundred years ago.
Relief at the Turkish Memorial
Particularly moving for us was the New Zealand memorial at Chunuk Bair. Rashid took us along the Turkish trenches – and we had a view towards Suvla Bay. He told us the stories about the troop movements, commenting on the ‘what ifs’ always presenting things from a neutral perspective. At one stage, he made us all visualise the troops coming up the hills – and made it very real. As we are the only Kiwis in our tour group, Rashid asked us if we would like to see the name of Colonel Malone (the NZ commander from Stratford who took the Kiwis to capture Chunuk Bair) on the memorial wall. We agreed – and he took us to the wall, where we also saw the name of Neil’s great uncle, E J Earley. Fantastic for us.
Neil’s thoughts are: While the objectives as explained appeared logical, the arrogance and the poor planning and communication by the leadership of the Allied forces, is hard to comprehend. When you look at the topography of the land and the small area that they fought over, I felt angry that so many lives were lost. I felt for the common troops on both sides and some of the command who could not or were not given the chance to have a say in some of the ridiculous orders to attack.
Sandra’s thoughts are: As a Kiwi no trip to Turkey would be complete without a visit to Gallipolli. Something I have wanted to do for a long time. Was particularly moved, particularly when we arrived at Anzac Cove and thought about the events that took place in that area. Another special moment was when we found Neil’s great uncle’s name on the plaque at the NZ Memorial at Chunuk Bair. We were privileged to be able to leave a poppy there and also at the Turkish Memorial and At Lone Pine (Australian Memorial).
Karla’s thoughts are: I was always aware of the senseless loss of life that our ANZAC day represents. But, having it described in such detail (by Rashid), and seeing it in person has made a real difference to me. I think I’m glad I was here ahead of the crowds and able to think about what the events of nearly 100 years ago means, without the hype and the sheer volume of tourist that must invade this place. Definitely one of the top sites for me in Turkey.